![]() ![]() This is because the water leaks out of the electrolytic caps past the oxygen cracked rubber seal. If you do gently bring your amps up, sometimes they work for a day or up to two weeks then blow something major. ![]() Even new electrolytic caps from the dealer have about an 8000 hour "shelf life" where they have to be "reformed" by low voltage before using. If you don't want to do the light bulb box thing, just make sure you have the fuse. My light bulb box has a safety grounded chassis, an outlet socket, a closed mesh top with all 120 VAC inside, and a 5 amp circuit breaker. Pull test your crimps before plugging it back in, if it pulls out it wasn't good enough.Īny electrolytic capacitor (in all consumer electronics after 1958) that has sit idle likes to be "reformed", so most experienced restorers start anything old with an amplifier in it on a "variac" at about 50 VAC instead of 120, or limit the AC current with a "light bulb box" with a 60-100W bulb in series with the hot wire. I used an Ideal brand crimp tool, but Kleins work too. If not install one, I'd start with 3 amps AGC or 2 amps MDL (slo-blo), I used an inline fuse holder from the auto supply, the AGC2's, and some 14 ga (blue) butt splices. ![]()
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